Tech Tips

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Hi Richard,

The standard cable does fit other XV bikes. You can find replacement cables here:

https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xv750-1996-4pw3-europe-264pw-300e3_model39221/speedometer-cable-assy_3lp8355000/

https://www.cmsnl.com/products/speedometer-cable-assy_57a8355000p/

https://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/vo-163-264

https://yambits.co.uk/xv750-virago-speedo-cable-p-161505.html

Hi. You would need to see if there is any spark at the plugs when it turns over. If there is a spark then it will either be ignition timing or no fuel. Perhaps the fuel pump is not working...

Try asking on our Facebook group - they are a friendly bunch and very helpful: https://www.facebook.com/groups/279978794416258

You may need to ask welders first as a replacement casing will be expensive. Try asking on our Facebook group page here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/279978794416258 

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With indicator relay issues it's easier to test the wiring to and from the relay. If that all checks out ok then the relay is at fault. They tend to be reliable so don't rush into buying

A link here for basic wiring diagrams fro Virgaos: https://viragotech.com/newtech/Wiring%20Diagrams.htm

If you are a club member, you can also ask here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/44194174014

Alternatively feel free to ask on our Friends of the VSOC here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/279978794416258

I find it easier to apply weight down on the centre stand, seems to make it easier than trying to just haul it up via the grab rail.

Centre stands are designed so your bodyweight DOWN with your boots on the prong does the job. With the correct technique, no lifting is involved and it can be done hands free. The 'handle' under the rear nearside frame is just à steadying rest.

- Turn signals don't blink, front running lights work. All bulbs replaced.

- Hazard lights don't work at all

- Horn: just makes a thunking noise. Bought brand new aftermarket horns, same problem - a thunk whenever I press the button. When the bike is running, pressing the horn button also turns off the bike like a kill switch.

I have ordered a new 41R-71 relay hoping it helps with the signal/hazard issue.

Question
1.) Will the new 41R-71 relay help with the new horns as well?

If not -
a.) Is there a different stock horn relay on this bike that needs to be changed ?
b.) Is the horn somehow attached to some kind of kill switch relay that I don't know about?

I bought this bike when I was young, tough, and stupid. The bike sat for about 15 years and I'm trying to restore it. Would love to get riding it again soon. I'm old now, but still tough and stupid.
Any and all help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Aaron.

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Hi Aaron,

I came across this answer on another forum which may help your issue.

https://viragotech.com/newtech/Horn%20and%20signal%20problems%20%28SOLVED%29.htm

Kind regards,
Nick Lappage

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Hi. Good question. Yes the sleeve in the bearing is the spacer. You can see more detail from this link:

https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xv750-virago-1983-d-usa_model8941/partslist/E-10.html

Hi there.

What you're looking for is out there. It's normally called an Easy Pull Clutch Cable system. There are numerous ones available but, without knowing your bike model, you would need to search some more.

There are various ones available on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=easy+pull+clutch+cable+system&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313

and also here: https://www.24mx.co.uk/product/twenty-easy-clutch-system_pid-UNI-T004

You can also do an internet search for "Easy Pull Clutch System2 and see what that returns.

Good luck in your quest for an easier ride.

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Hi! Great to hear you've got a 1983 XV750SE — a classic and characterful bike. Welcome to the Virago world!

About the Handlebar Rubber Mounts

The rubber grommets you're referring to are part of the vibration damping system Yamaha used on many Virago models. They're designed to reduce the amount of engine vibration transmitted to your hands via the handlebars.

How Much Movement is Normal?

• A little movement is normal — particularly side-to-side and a bit of up-down flex when pushing or pulling on the bars.

• However, if the bars feel mushy, vague, or like they “float” too much, the rubber may be:

  • Perished or worn out (common with age),

  • Loosened bolts or collapsed bushings,

  • Or overly soft for your preference.

Can You Tighten or Modify Them?

Yes, there are a few things you can do if you want a firmer feel:

Option 1: Add Washers (Common DIY Fix)

• Some owners add large flat washers above and below the rubber bushings to limit the squish.

• You can also insert a metal spacer tube inside the bushing stack so the bolt tightens against metal instead of compressing the rubber endlessly.

• This gives a more direct feel without fully removing the vibration damping.

Option 2: Replace Bushings

• New OEM-style rubber bushings might restore proper feel if yours are degraded.

• You can also use urethane bushings (firmer than rubber) if you can find or make them to fit — these reduce flex but still isolate some vibration.

Option 3: Solid Mount Conversion

• Some riders replace the rubber entirely with metal spacers for solid-mounted bars — but this will increase vibration noticeably, which can get uncomfortable on long rides.

Summary

• A little flex is normal due to rubber damping.

• Excessive play or wobble can be reduced with washers, spacers, or firmer bushings.

• Solid-mounting is possible but comes at the cost of comfort.

I have a 1983 xv750se, have just replaced swing arm bearings, and have been putting everything back together. I thought the red light on the dash was an oil pressure switch ( in the past I put semi-synthetic oil in and the oil light flashed periodically, so I drained the oil and replaced with mineral oil, which solved the problem; no flashing light), but my Haynes manual states it is an oil level switch. An oil level switch would seem unnecessary, as there is a visual oil level sight glass on the bike. Can you confirm either way, please, as I think I should have 2 lights ( red and green) with ignition on in neutral, the oil light going out when bike is running. Thanks

Hi Steve.

You can fit a 180 on the rear (180/70-15), though there are some who have fitted a 200mm tyre and even a 215mm tyre.

Hi David,

Here are a few possible answers for you:

1. Don’t think they have a head gasket as such but a copper ring
2. Not possible as you will have to take the cam drive off each cylinder
3. Check torque settings of head bolts first. Occam's razor.

Thank you am now starting process of putting engine back in frame. On taking heads off, discovered no head gaskets except few loose granules and a couple of bits of wire. Yes new gaskets were just rings, first ones were too thick to get heads to sit down properly but Yambits were very helpful and supplied me with 2.4mm replacements, and missing cam chain tensioner gaskets from gasket set. Also new o rings for cam chain tunnel were too slender to seal, had to reuse old ones . Was a Vertex set. Hopefully soon back on road! Regards David Copping

Hi Tom, no need to worry — you haven’t made a mistake.

While 10W/40 is Yamaha’s usual recommendation for the XV750, using 20W/40 V-Twin oil on an older engine is perfectly fine, especially if it’s running well and not using oil. If the bike’s happy, there’s no need to change it urgently.

For the XV535, if the oil looks clean that’s a good sign. At the next change, I’d suggest a quality 10W/40 motorcycle oil so you know exactly what’s in there.

In short: both bikes are fine — just keep up with regular oil changes.

Hi Martyn,

It does sound very much like a fuel delivery issue rather than an ignition problem, especially as it will fire on easy start but will not keep running.

Because the bike has been standing outside since late December, the most likely causes are stale fuel, water in the fuel, a blocked carb jet, or possibly a problem with the fuel tap or vacuum pipe. The fact that it previously acted oddly when going onto reserve could also point to the tap, filter, or tank breather needing attention.

A few simple things to check first are:

• fresh petrol in the tank
• fuel is definitely flowing from the tap
• tank breather is not blocked
• vacuum pipe to the fuel tap is sound and connected
• carb bowls and jets are not gummed up

If it starts on easy start but dies straight away, that usually means it is not getting enough fuel through the normal system to idle properly.

I would avoid using too much easy start, as it can mask the real fault and is not great for repeated use.

Hopefully someone local with a bit of Dragstar experience can give you a hand. If any club member is nearby and willing to help Martyn get the bike running again, please get in touch with him direct.

You may also find help on the forums page: https://vsoc.org.uk/forums/forum/vsoc-forum/ or on the Facebook Group page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/44194174014.

Hope you get it sorted soon and back on the road.

Best wishes,
Nick